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@@Ls6chris this was when it had a Holley stealth managment system. Went to terminator X after this

@@ZONES89RS running termi x max on a Camaro I’ve got but I’d love to go carb on the next build I’ve got , would you recommend the stealth?

@@Ls6chris it is hit and miss. I had luck using the 6014 box with it til the fuel pump started acting silly and that wasn’t the stealths fault The terminator is my preference

@@ZONES89RS that box is the MSD box, correct? ( new to the carb LS stuff)

@@Ls6chris correct. It can control with carb or the stealth

@@user-bw3mq8du7u exactly lol

@@diablos6874 definitely lol

Well, it should I am going to make a new video as soon as the new cables come in and will show more detail as my other Silverado right rear door just did the same damn thing 🤣

Thanks for letting me know it was not made for nothing!

I’m ugly as sin so that makes it even worse 🤣

It is hard to tell but it is vastly softer and not extra as F now lol

That raspy squatters anthem vs we stand on business 😆

Winning!!

Glad it helped man!

Classic industries I believe

This is when inner or outer handles won’t work. There is a cable that can break. In my instance it didn’t break all the way but still stretched out stopping me from using the handles. The locks will engage and disengage as they operate separate from the location where the cable ties in to the locking mechanism itself. I really wish I had the door apart when I did the video to show a more clear idea of what all is going on. Your door won’t open at all? A slim Jim will probably work. A thin rod definitely did the job. The thickness of a old car antenna works

Between the glass and the seal, towards the rear giving a little room for whatever tool you will be using

That’s odd. Might have to have someone push in on the door while doing so? You might have a bit bigger mechanical failure than the cable being broken

@@ZONES89RS I managed to get the extended cab door panel off and backed off the bolts going into the nut plate. Then had to cut the bolts because they were too long for the door to open. Once I had the door open the striker was stuck in the actuator. I pulled in the cable but it was frayed. Once I removed the cable I was able to use the outside handle to open it and remove the striker. My guess is that the cable was frayed internally and was putting just enough pull on the mechanism and was stuck in a in between state. $10 Amazon cable fixed me right up and I didn't have to break any of the door panels. Just a few clips went bad. Thanks for the inspiration to get this done.

@@atxjax1 well, I hope this is useful for some guy searching the comments that has the same situation. Glad you got it. But wish it was easier like the rest of us had it

@@ZONES89RS Now that I think about it, I probably didnt need to cut the bolts. I could have disconnected the safety catch from the extended door lever and opened the extended door. But it's done and I bought new bolts. Working like new again. Hope this helps someone else. Thanks for your video.

Glad you stuck with it. I really regret not taking time to record inside of the door to give folks a better idea of what they are fishing for.

Should work for my my man. Just be patient. I wish I took a video of how it works internally so folks had that reference. Best of luck brotha!

Thanks for the feedback my man. Every one of these makes me happy I made the footage

I wanted this done asap so the no life for 5 months was worth it but it was rough

Damn cold wrecked the cable I guess lol

Winning. This video has gained traction lately with comments. These trucks aren’t getting any younger I suppose. lol

Sorry the timing was bad for ya, I’m sure the cold is what did it in. I’m assuming it was the cable?

@@ZONES89RS Timing was perfect for me, just had it happen this last weekend. Yes the big storm we got froze it solid, and I assume the switch on the outside rod handle got stuck either middle, or up or down. Could not open door from out or in, was about to start taking the door apart from the inside when I found your video. instead grabbed a hanger and some pliers, made the rod you had with the 90 at the end, then went fishing from the drivers seat. awkward angles and being a giant fat guy in a huge winter coat made it harder but we got it handled. THANK YOU

@@juicesghost8501 well, thanks to you I can now also confirm it can be done from the inside as well as a coat hanger can be used. The rod I used was definitely thicker so that’s excellent due to being a super common item. Thanks for sharing your details man!

That is horrible timing but the cold probably made it happen faster than it would have if I had to guess. Stay warm!!

Generally it is the same design I believe. The latch mechanism has a tab that goes downward to open the door like the fronts do. Just swapped rear latch on my latest 08 truck.

Schoenfeld Next time I’ll use speed engineering since they are cheaper and stainless

It made 312 rear wheel horsepower with this setup. It was the most fun truck I’ve owned until I built my 64 C10

@@ZONES89RS Awesome man, thanks for the reply!

Gotta have a big converter to move a fat ass truck when you only have a 5.3 lol

Like 4500 stall? What rear gear

@@YoungerPrice 3.42

​@@ZONES89RS410s will make that converter have less slippage in it obviously they all have some

@@YoungerPrice yup, but it had 3.42s and the 5.3 needs help. So it worked out well til the new 6 liter drive line goes in

3800

North side of houston

I just used a random piece of metal I had. Needs to be about like a antenna for a car

Always a gamble. I watch the ratings heavily and read reviews. My amazon cable has been fine since making this thankfully

So I fixed my issue, but I'm curious if you've ever seen what happened to me. I pried the door panel open and watched all the mechanisms function properly. The lock, inside handle, and outside handle all moved their lever arms correctly and even made the right clicking sounds. Anyways the door refused to open after hours of monkeying around with it. I took the seat out and ripped off the door panel. Reached in to disconnect the linkage for the outside door handle, pulled the inside handle and it opened. I reconnected the outside handle linkage and everything works fine and dandy now... it makes no sense to me

@@tylermcconnell2222 Yes I have seen this. Sometimes one of the linkages is partially activated and it won't let the door open. Sort of stuck in a middle position. I would also keep an eye on the latch. It could be on it's way out. There isn't much with door issues I haven't seen. Some newer cars with dead batteries won't even unlock with a key. They aren't stuck as we unlock them with a tool but it's nuts they have "emergency" key inside fobs but if the battery is dead they won't unlock. We get these calls everyday.

I've heard nightmare stories of cars not unlocking with a dead battery and you can't get under the hood to charge it because you need to get inside the car to pop the hood... lol. it amazes me how ignorant engineers can be. But thanks for the reply, I think you're right about the linkage being partially engaged, that makes sense. But I might consider replacing the latch since that's also a possibility. I lubed it up in the mean time so hopefully no more problems.

@@tylermcconnell2222 Some guys put power to the starter or they pull an easy to get to light and apply power to that and the door should open with the key. Those engineers help put my son through college so I'm not mad at them. lol

2008 Chevy Silverado, passenger door won't open...not the cable, it's the malfunction of the door latch...that release is stuck and won't move to free things...another idea how to get the latch to release?

I’d bet it works the same way.

Judging by the comments; it seems to have helped a ton of people

Thank ya, sir. Been very happy with it!

7500

Thank ya sir. Was the most work I’ve poured in to a vehicle. Rusty MF